I Bought a Sewing Machine–Now What?
Setting up your new sewing machine, and understanding how it works.
Feeling intimidated by your new sewing machine? Maybe you bought a one with a touchscreen or were gifted a vintage beauty?
Whichever is more your style, the best way to understand how to operate your machine is to understand how it works.
But first, a little history.
A Brief History of the Sewing Machine
Humans have been sewing for at least tens of thousands of years. And for 99% of that time, we were exclusively hand sewing.
The sewing machine was a product of the Industrial Revolution–a time when new energy sources and technological advances automated the production of things previously made by hand.
In the case of the sewing machine, the task of sewing a garment, which could take tens of hours by hand, could be completed in just a couple of hours.
While there are many sewing machine patents around, Isaac Merritt Singer (yes, that Singer) was the first to patent and manufacture the straight stitch sewing machine in 1851.
Today’s sewing machines can do a whole lot more than a simple straight stitch. Computerized touchscreen sewing machines can create multi-colored embroidered designs, cut your thread for you, carry out fancy stitches at the touch of a button, and even alert you to errors.
Regardless, most machines since Singer share the same main features. Let’s look at how you’d set up your machine using basic sewing machine anatomy.
Setting up your Machine
NOTE: Refer to your sewing machine manual for the most precise way to set up and operate it. If you’re missing a copy, you can find one on the Internet by searching “[Insert your machine model] manual.”
Anatomy of the Sewing Machine
Here are the most important parts of your sewing machine you should know as a beginner. Try to identify them on your machine, using your manual if needed:
Thread spool pin and bobbin case: Where your top and bobbin threads live, respectively.
Balance wheel: Rises and lowers the needle in addition to winding the bobbin.
Top thread take-up lever: Responsible for pulling top thread from the bobbin.
Top thread tension regulator: The higher the number, the higher the tension.
Stitch length regulator: The higher the number, the longer your stitches will be.
Reverse button (or lever): Used for reverse sewing. This is not always obvious on vintage models.
Presser foot: An attachment that keeps your fabric flat while you sew. It’s raised and lowered by a presser foot lever.
Feed dogs: Move your fabric as you sew. When the feed dogs are dropped, you can engage in free-motion sewing (often used by quilters).
Threading Your Machine
Unlike hand sewing, which uses a single thread passed back and forth through a layer of fabric, machine stitching requires the interlocking of two strings of thread: the top thread, and the bobbin thread. When the tension between these threads is balanced, they are interlocked in the center of the fabric.
The first step to getting this tension right is to make sure both threads are threaded correctly. If you own a modern sewing machine, you’ll likely find a series of numbers and illustrations that will guide you in correctly threading both threads. If you own a vintage machine, your manual will guide you through the steps.
Tips for Operating Your Machine
Use the right needle: While a universal needle is good for most jobs, it’s helpful to have needles that are specific for working with knit fabrics, denim, or even leather.
Secure your fabric: Make sure the presser foot is always in the down position before you start sewing.
Swatch before you sew: Before starting on your project, sew using sample scraps to double check your settings.
Avoid snags: When you’ve finished sewing, make sure the needle is fully in its up position before removing your fabric.
Troubleshooting and Maintenance
For the beginner, sewing challenges can be frustrating to the point of putting a project down indefinitely. The good news is that each problem has a cause. With a combination of resources and good troubleshooting techniques, you can overcome most of them without the need for a mechanic.
The Problem is (Usually) Tension
Recall that tension refers to the balance between the interlocking top and bobbin threads. While many resources will have you adjusting your tension regulator as a first step, you want that to be one of the last things you try.
Common tension issues arise from improper threading, or not using the right needle size compared to the thickness of the fabric. As a rule of thumb, thicker fabrics (or a thick stack of fabric) will need thicker needles, and vice versa for thin fabrics.
Troubleshoot Like a Pro
If you’ve run into a challenge and need to troubleshoot, here are some general tips to aid you in your quest:
Observe the problem. The more specific you are, the easier it will be to isolate a set of solutions to try. Is your thread breaking? Are you skipping stitches? Is your thread bunching up in the back of your work? This will help guide you to isolate a set of potential solutions to try.
Take note of your settings. Before you start making changes, it’s helpful to make note of what isn’t working. What size needle are you using? What are your stitch length and tension set to? Are you working with thin fabric, or layers of thick fabric?
Try one solution at a time. It may be tempting to adjust multiple things at once in the hopes of getting to a resolution faster, but it can do just the opposite. If you’re lucky and it works, then you won’t really know how to solve the issue the next time. By changing one thing at a time, you’ll be able to isolate and solve your issue more effectively.
Further Resources
If this all feels overwhelming, consider taking a class! With a supportive environment and someone to guide you, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a confident sewing machine operator.
If you’re in the Seattle Area, you can sign up for one of our Sewing Machine Basics workshops. Otherwise look for a beginner sewing class near you.
Questions? You can get in touch on our contact page.
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